Paris Fashion Week: Balenciaga Goes Under the Sea, Icicle Turns to Colour

Balenciaga showed on Thursday afternoon at the Tennis Club de Paris, where a large red-and-white gorgonian by artist Aude Franjou climbed towards the venue's skylight. Pierpaolo Piccioli walked the runway to applause and made a circuit of the space.

The Italian designer named the Spring/Summer 2027 collection "Les Coraux de la Liberté" (The Corals of Freedom), drawing on marine ecosystems to shape a mixed-gender, multifaceted offering.

Piccioli, who regularly underlines the role of the ateliers he works with, framed the collection around collective success. "No one shines alone. Just like corals, we – and the ideas we champion – need two fundamental elements to flourish: protection and mutual exchange," he said, adding that providing a safe space means allowing everyone to express themselves and be heard.

Icicle, meanwhile, unveiled a colourful, minimalist wardrobe. The presentation came ahead of the official announcement that Sabato De Sarno will join the label as creative director.

Thursday's schedule brought together two brands whose creative futures are yet to be defined, arriving amid rumours of a departure from Balenciaga.