Demna Restages Gucci Flagship as Runway Set for Spring/Summer 2027

The Milan set was built as a retail environment rather than a conventional runway: marble walls, velvet seating, rails of hanging clothes and shelves lined with accessories reproduced the look of a Gucci flagship store.

In his show letter, Demna described Gucci as a desire to "belong to a more glamorous world".

Womenswear opened on the house's equestrian codes, led by a fitted three-button riding jacket trimmed with tiny silver horsebits at the lapels and worn with tight white breeches and tall riding boots. What followed was a bourgeois register: crisp trenches, precise coats, shirt dresses and immaculate tailoring, styled with an apparent self-possession.

Tartan kilts appeared with oversized horsebit hardware, rugby shirts arrived with collars popped, bomber jackets were cut to swell around the body, and low-slung jeans were held by belts carrying multiple buckles, with heavy chains piled at the collarbone.

The tailoring carried its own tension, with peaked shoulders, waists pulled inward and jackets cut closer to the body than the monumental shapes associated with Demna's Balenciaga years. Against more Gothic tailoring and elongated proportions elsewhere in the collection, the collection's bourgeois ease read as a deliberate contrast.

Menswear turned to cropped trousers, bare ankles and loafers, evoking the late-1980s and early-1990s Gucci man, positioned somewhere between inherited privilege and practiced nonchalance.